How Does Electric Custom Golf Carts Work?

An electric golf cart is a motorized vehicle that is used to transport golfers and their equipment around a golf course. It is powered by an electric motor and runs on rechargeable batteries.

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The electric motor is connected to the wheels of the cart, and when the driver presses the accelerator, the motor turns the wheels and propels the cart forward. The speed of the cart is controlled by the accelerator, and the brakes are used to slow it down. The batteries are recharged by plugging the cart into an electrical outlet.

The electric golf cart is a convenient and efficient way to get around the golf course, as it is quiet and does not produce any emissions. It is also more affordable than a gas-powered golf cart, as it does not require any fuel. Electric golf carts are becoming increasingly popular, as they are easy to use and maintain, and they provide a great way to get around the golf course without having to walk.

What is the power source of an electric golf cart?

An electric golf cart is a vehicle powered by an electric motor. It is a popular choice for golf courses, as it is quieter and more environmentally friendly than a gas-powered cart. The power source of an electric golf cart is typically a battery pack, which is composed of several individual batteries connected in series.

The battery pack is charged by plugging it into an electrical outlet, and the charge is then used to power the electric motor. The motor then turns the wheels of the cart, allowing it to move.

The battery pack typically needs to be recharged after a certain number of miles, depending on the size of the battery pack and the type of terrain the cart is used on. Electric golf carts are also equipped with regenerative braking, which helps to recharge the battery pack as the cart slows down.

This helps to extend the range of the cart and reduce the need for frequent recharging.

How does the accelerator control the speed of an electric golf cart?

The accelerator control is an important component of an electric golf cart that helps to regulate its speed. It is typically located on the dashboard and is used to control the speed of the cart. The accelerator control works by controlling the amount of electricity that is sent to the motor.

When the accelerator is pressed, more electricity is sent to the motor, which increases the speed of the cart. Conversely, when the accelerator is released, less electricity is sent to the motor, which decreases the speed of the cart.

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The accelerator control also allows the driver to adjust the speed of the cart in small increments, allowing for more precise control over the speed of the cart. Additionally, the accelerator control can be used to quickly stop the cart by cutting off the power to the motor. In summary, the accelerator control is an important component of an electric golf cart that helps to regulate its speed by controlling the amount of electricity sent to the motor.

How often do electric golf carts need to be recharged?

Electric golf carts need to be recharged on a regular basis in order to ensure that they are running properly. Generally, it is recommended that electric golf carts be recharged every two to three days, depending on the amount of use they receive. If the cart is used frequently, it may need to be recharged more often.

It is important to note that the battery should never be completely drained, as this can cause damage to the battery and reduce its lifespan. Additionally, it is important to check the battery level regularly and recharge it when it is low.

It is also important to use the correct charger for the golf cart, as using the wrong charger can cause damage to the battery. Finally, it is important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for charging the battery, as this will ensure that the battery is charged properly and will last for a long time.

In summary, electric golf carts need to be recharged every two to three days, depending on the amount of use they receive, and the battery should never be completely drained. Additionally, it is important to use the correct charger and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for charging the battery.

What are the advantages of using an electric golf cart?

Using an electric golf cart has many advantages. First, electric golf carts are much more environmentally friendly than gas-powered carts. They produce no emissions, so they don’t contribute to air pollution. Additionally, electric golf carts are much quieter than gas-powered carts, so they don’t disturb other golfers or wildlife.

Second, electric golf carts are much more cost-effective than gas-powered carts. They require less maintenance and have fewer parts that need to be replaced, so they are cheaper to operate in the long run. Third, electric golf carts are much more powerful than gas-powered carts.

They have more torque, so they can climb hills and carry heavier loads with ease. Finally, electric golf carts are much more convenient than gas-powered carts. They can be charged quickly and easily, so you don’t have to worry about running out of fuel.

All in all, electric golf carts offer many advantages over gas-powered carts, making them a great choice for golfers who want to save money and reduce their environmental impact.

For more information, please visit 4 Seater Golf Car.

Starting off with a Club Car Tempo, building it with a Navitas 600A / 4kW AC conversion and Eco Battery 105 AH lithium battery. To start I stripped down the golf cart and pressure washed everything clean. If you want a guide on how to take it apart go here: Club Car Tempo Teardown Guide



Now you don't have to strip the golf cart down to do this, you can leave the rear body and underbody on but since we're building it it's easier just to have access.

So to start you remove the T40 mounting plate screw


Now unscrew the 3 #2 philips screws holding in the charge port. Rotate and pull into the battery compartment. Then unplug the MCOR and clip the tie wrap under the passenger side cup holder and pull the harness into the battery compartment.


Now unplug the speed sensor and remove the cables from the motor (1/2" and 7/16" nuts), pull the mounting plate forward and up, and feed through the motor cables:


Now you can set the whole assembly onto your workbench for easy access to everything. More to come later
Pulled everything apart, only the mounting plate and main harness will be reused.


I also mounted the solenoid, I am using an Albright SU80P which can be ordered directly from Club Car with part number . The discharge curve matches well to the discharge rating of the Eco Battery that will power the system, roughly drawn in green. This is an “uninterrupted” application so the blue curve would apply.



You can mount it with the screws from the original controller. The threads are technically M6 x 1.25 however 1/4-20 is pretty much the same so you can use that.

Mounted the charger to the side of the battery compartment using the included screws. I added a flat washer to prevent the isolator from sinking into the hole and added two rubber washers on the backside of each


I also made an interlock relay harness to shut down the controller when the charger is plugged in. There is a two pin deutsch connector on the charger, this outputs a 12v signal while charging.


If you perform a diode test with the polarity reversed you will see .42 volts indicating diode protection is built into the charger and not necessary on the relay


Now I have the sockets and pins for both the deutch plug and relay but if you have extra MCOR jumpers around you can use the 2 wire part and just crimp regular spade terminals on the end


Gray is coil positive which I put to 86 and coil negative is green going to 85. I did this because that is the polarity relays with integrated diodes have if one of those were installed. Black goes to 30 and will go to B-, blue goes to 87 and will connect to the blue wire with the bullet connector near the controller


Everything hooked up and loomed, relay mounted to the battery compartment, push clip tie wraps installed to hold all the cables in place
Time to mount the controller. The mounting plate only has two screws holding it along the bottom, not very secure. I decided to mark the location of another boss and drill a new hole so there would be support up top.


Countersunk the hole and tapped the boss to 1/4 20 threads. A third screw was included with the kit there was just nowhere to mount it


Also I grinded one corner so the hook for the controller cover will still fit


Now you want to make sure the plate is sitting down flush. If it is not you need to file down the high spots in the stock plate. Then apply thermal compound and tighten the screws, use thread lock on the screws


Now you can put thermal paste on the controller and mount that to the plate


Now test fit in the golf cart to make sure everything fits, you will need to shave the area where the controller plug goes a little to clear
Time to start wiring. I've started using this electrical spray lube rather than dielectric grease in the connections since it soaks in and gives everything corrosion protection and dries so that it won't attract dirt to the connector.


I'll cap off the unused plugs for neatness and protection. One thing to note if you have a sealed connector and you don't have wires in all of the spots you MUST use a cavity plug to maintain the seal. If not it's even worse than an unsealed connector because not only will water get inside but it will get trapped in there with no way out and really mess things up


I drilled out the two holes between the controller and solenoid slightly so I could install some more push clip tie wraps and secure the main harness. Also if you notice something missing in the second photo, I rerouted the 15 amp fuse to the opposite side of the plate so it can be accessed from under the seat instead of having to crawl through the back.



Then I made and installed the 2awg marine grade battery cables. I replaced the included zinc plated terminal screws and lock washer with a stainless flanged serrated lock bolt similar to the original controller screws.


Once I put on the solenoid to controller cable on the whole assembly will be ready to go back in the golf cart.

Time to start wiring. I've started using this electrical spray lube rather than dielectric grease in the connections since it soaks in and gives everything corrosion protection and dries so that it won't attract dirt to the connector.
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I'll cap off the unused plugs for neatness and protection. One thing to note if you have a sealed connector and you don't have wires in all of the spots you MUST use a cavity plug to maintain the seal. If not it's even worse than an unsealed connector because not only will water get inside but it will get trapped in there with no way out and really mess things up
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I drilled out the two holes between the controller and solenoid slightly so I could install some more push clip tie wraps and secure the main harness. Also if you notice something missing in the second photo, I rerouted the 15 amp fuse to the opposite side of the plate so it can be accessed from under the seat instead of having to crawl through the back.
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Then I made and installed the 2awg marine grade battery cables. I replaced the included zinc plated terminal screws and lock washer with a stainless flanged serrated lock bolt similar to the original controller screws.
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Once I put on the solenoid to controller cable on the whole assembly will be ready to go back in the golf cart.

this may not do what you want but it has been my favorite for decades
Really good for re-storing continuity in connectors

this can is several yrs old , i only use it repairs

I've started using this electrical spray lube rather than dielectric grease

I have been using aerosol silicone on electrical components for years. Cars, trucks, boats and planes and now carts as well. Coils, solenoids, plug wires, magnetos, distributor caps. ECUs. Where ever you don't want moisture. It does every thing you mentioned and sheds water and moisture like no other product IMO. The one drawback is if you get it on a surface you intend to paint you have to clean it off with some serious solvents or you will have more fisheyes than a Koi pond or paint that just won't stick More progress. Brakes cleaned lubed adjusted, heavy duty leaf springs installed in back. Normally with the lithium weight reduction it cancels out the rear seat and you can keep the stock springs, however because this is a high speed golf cart and the customer only intends on using it on well paved roads we have spec’d heavy duty springs front and back.

AC motor installed now too, for the 3 x 1/4-20 motor bolts I switched to grade 8 since the motor is more powerful. I got 2-1/2” instead of 2-1/4”, the threads on the Navitas motor are deep enough for the longer screw. The AC motor also has the 4th mounting tab so you can use a 5/16-18 x 1” screw to utilize that. You need a socket head due to the mount being recessed in the motor casting




Also component plate and battery are now in the golf cart for good, reducer is installed, and wiring in the battery compartment is secured.

More progress. Brakes cleaned lubed adjusted, heavy duty leaf springs installed in back. Normally with the lithium weight reduction it cancels out the rear seat and you can keep the stock springs, however because this is a high speed golf cart and the customer only intends on using it on well paved roads we have spec’d heavy duty springs front and back.

AC motor installed now too, for the 3 x 1/4-20 motor bolts I switched to grade 8 since the motor is more powerful. I got 2-1/2” instead of 2-1/4”, the threads on the Navitas motor are deep enough for the longer screw. The AC motor also has the 4th mounting tab so you can use a 5/16-18 x 1” screw to utilize that. You need a socket head due to the mount being recessed in the motor casting
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Also component plate and battery are now in the golf cart for good, reducer is installed, and wiring in the battery compartment is secured.
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i like your crimpers
i have had one with the same jaw shape for decades
it is all i use on #12 or less
i have a set of manual up to #1 for the big wires
handles are about 3 ft long and selectable dies Got my lugs in so I could finally make the motor cables. I don’t understand why it is so hard to find quality lugs, I like to use the type that are stamped from a solid sheet of copper and then rolled to form the barrel. But if you look online all you find is this type that is made from a copper tube. I dislike this style because the “ring” portion is just where the tube was pressed flat so you have this split in the end, also this means the crimp wall is half as thick as the ring vs. the stamped type with a full thickness wall. You can see this side by side.



So now that I have my cables made I test fit them to the motor:


Then I fed them through the cover and tightened everything down: