So you’ve decided you might want a longarm quilting machine. Maybe you’ve been quilting for years—finishing your tops by hand, wrangling them through your domestic machine, or sending them off to a professional longarmer. But now? You’re ready to bring the magic home.
With competitive price and timely delivery, Glory Tang Machinery sincerely hope to be your supplier and partner.
I get it. Owning your own longarm is a game-changer. But it’s also a big decision—this is not a toaster oven. It’s an investment of money, time, space, and, let’s be honest, emotional commitment. There are so many brands, features, and opinions floating around, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed before you even sit down/stand at a machine.
This guide isn’t about telling you which brand to buy—it’s about helping you ask the right questions so you can find a machine that fits you. Not just your quilts, but your space, your body, and your quilting goals.
Are you looking to finish your own projects at home? Maybe you’re thinking about quilting for hire. This is where your machine journey begins. If you’re only doing 10 or 20 quilts a year, there are excellent midarm machines and domestic sit-down options that might suit you just fine.
But if you’re thinking about quilting more regularly, or starting a business, you’ll want something sturdier and more versatile. That likely means a commercial-grade longarm with the biggest frame, and throat space, you can afford, and fit in your space.
And just like with sewing machines, you get what you pay for. That awesome promo priced starter setup might look good now, but it could end up being frustrating, and costly, if you outgrow it in six months.
The frame is where things get real. I mean, you can’t just tuck a longarm into a closet when you’re not using it. My frame is a 14-footer—but in reality, it takes up about 15 feet of space in my studio once you factor in movement space and clearances.
An “8-foot frame” doesn’t mean you can quilt an 8-foot quilt. Nope. You lose usable width to clamps, take up levers, and leader widths. Most machines lose about 6–10 inches on either side—sometimes more, depending on the model. So your actual quilting space might be closer to 6.5 feet on an 8-foot frame. That’s a big deal, if you ever want to quilt larger quilts.
If you’re thinking about quilting professionally, get the biggest frame your space can reasonably handle. You might only do a few kings a year, but trust me—you do not want to turn down a customer because their quilt doesn’t fit your frame.
And don’t forget about depth. You need enough room around the frame to move comfortably. You’ll need at least two feet on either side and behind the machine to work properly, and ideally more, if you’re running pantographs, as you will be standing behind the machine head at the back.
.
Now let’s talk throat space—that’s the distance between the needle and the machine body.
Here’s something you might not expect: I’m vertically challenged. (Not a secret to anyone who has met me in person.) But I still use a 30″ machine head—and I absolutely love it. Why? Because I want to see the whole design.
A bigger throat gives me room to stitch larger motifs, quilt more square inches at a time, and plan more complex designs without stopping constantly to roll the quilt forward. You don’t need a 30″ workspace, but if you’re doing big, open designs, or just like seeing more of your canvas while you quilt, a bigger head makes it easier. It’s not just about reach—it’s about visibility and flow.
And don’t let anyone tell you you’re too short for a big machine. You just need to plan your setup right, maybe add a small platform or stool, and make sure your machine is set to a height that works for you. (More on that below.)
Who else out there is tired of leaning across a stabilizing bar above the belly bar like you’re reaching into a chest freezer? Yep, been there. Not all machines are created equal when it comes to comfort—especially for those of us under 5’3″.
Some machines have a bar or frame that rests above your quilt top. If you’re shorter, this can be a pain (literally). I recommend trying a few machines in person to see how they feel. And ask: Is the bar removable? Adjustable? Fixed in place? It makes a difference.
If multiple people will be using your machine—say, you’re sharing it with a taller friend or letting your kids/grandkids try it—consider investing in hydraulic lifts. They let you raise and lower the entire machine with the touch of a button. It’s a luxury, sure, but if you’re switching between pantographs (done from the back, needs a higher setup) and custom work (done from the front, lower is better), or if you switch between standing and sitting while doing dense custom work, those lifts are worth their weight in gold.
This is the part where it’s easy to get swept away. Every machine dealer has shiny attachments, flashy upgrades, and the promise of quilting perfection, if you just add one more thing. But here’s the truth: not every feature is worth it for every quilter.
I always tell people—buy for how you quilt today, and plan for how you might quilt tomorrow. Start with the features that support the way you already work, then think about what might grow with you.
Here are a few upgrades I do think are worth serious consideration:
Stitch regulator – A must-have if you’re doing custom work or ruler quilting. It keeps your stitch length consistent even when your movement isn’t.
Micro handles – I personally love these. They give you better control when you’re doing fine detail work or quilting tight curves.
Ruler base – If you’re using quilting rulers, you’ll need a sturdy, well-fitting base to support them. This isn’t optional—it’s essential.
Now, let’s talk about computerized quilting. I’ll be honest—I don’t use a computerized system myself for custom work. I enjoy the hands-on, artistic side of quilting too much. But for some quilters—especially those with mobility challenges or chronic pain—computerization can be a real game-changer. It takes the strain out of maneuvering a heavy machine and can help you produce high-quality work with less physical effort.
That said, computerized systems are not just “push a button and walk away.” There’s a significant learning curve involved—learning the software, setting up designs, tweaking the alignment, troubleshooting when things go a little sideways. It’s not impossible, but it’s not magic either.
So before you make that leap, ask yourself:
Will I use it often enough to justify the cost?
Am I comfortable learning the tech (or willing to take classes)?
Does this solve a real problem in my quilting workflow?
Some of these features can be added later—so don’t feel pressured to buy everything right away. Make a list of must-haves, nice-to-haves, and “maybe someday” items. That way, you can invest wisely and grow into your machine without regret.
The best way to find the right machine? Try them. All of them. Go to a big quilt show or visit a few dealerships. Spend time stitching—not just doodling on a sample but really quilting like you would at home.
And don’t feel bad for asking questions. This is a big purchase, and you deserve to get it right. Every machine has a learning curve, and no two stitch exactly the same. The one that feels “just okay” to your friend might feel perfect to you.
Buying a longarm isn’t just about getting a new piece of equipment—it’s about investing in your creativity, your quilting future, and honestly, your workflow. But that doesn’t mean everyone has to use it the same way.
Some quilters dream of quilting every top themselves—and that’s fantastic! But I also have numerous customers who own longarms and still send their quilts out to be quilted. Why? Because they realized they’d rather spend their precious quilting time piecing, not learning a whole new machine. And that’s 100% okay.
Longarms come with a learning curve—sometimes a steep one. You’re not doing it wrong if you decide that curve doesn’t fit your life or your quilting goals. Whether you want to dive in and custom quilt every feathered border, or simply enjoy the piecing process and outsource the finishing—you’re still a quilter. Full stop.
At the end of the day, buying a longarm is a personal decision. Take your time. Ask questions. Try different machines. And most importantly, make the choice that supports the kind of quilter you want to be—not the one Instagram says you should be.
You don’t need permission—but just in case you do—here it is: quilt the way that brings you joy.
Sooo…. The topic this week is needles. I realize we’ve talked about needles in one very specific capacity (hand sewing needles), and in a very general way when we have talked about sewing machines. This week I want to really highlight how important it is to use the correct sewing machine needle for the fabric under it. For the purpose of this blog, when I use the term “needle,” it refers to a standard, domestic sewing machine needle, and not needles used in embroidery machines or long arms.
Just as there are some generalities and specifics about hand sewing needles, the same holds true for machine needles. Let’s talk generalities first, and then we’ll talk specifics. To begin with, a machine needle is very different from a hand sewing needle. A hand sewing needle looks like this:
And a machine needle looks like this:
It’s easy to see some characteristics are the same and some are different. We’ll start with the eye and work upwards.
Contact us to discuss your requirements of Multi-Needle Quilting Machine. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.
Eye – The hole in which the thread slides through. Remember when we discussed the eyes of hand sewing needles, and I told you cheap needles can have “gunk” in the eyes – areas where the needle had not been properly and thoroughly polished so there are rough edges in the eye which can cut your thread and generally make your sewing life a nightmare? The same holds true for a machine needle. A needle should have a smoothly machined eye to prevent thread shedding – so beware of the cheap ones. The size of the eye depends on the intended thread type (more on this later).
Point – Like hand sewing needles, the shape of the point varies widely between different needle types. Some needles, such as ball points, have a slightly rounded end because it’s not made to actually puncture the fabric’s threads. It’s made to slide in between the fibers, which makes it an ideal needle for synthetics. Other needles, such as those intended for leather or leather-like fabrics, have an almost chiseled point.
Shaft – The shaft varies in thickness according to the intended fabric. Thicker fabric requires a thicker shaft.
Scarf – This is a groove on the back of the needle which enables the hook on the bobbin case to get close to the eye of the needle in order to avoid skipped stitches.
It’s easy to see the only characteristics different from a hand sewing needle are the scarf and the groove. But what about sizes? With hand sewing needles, the larger the number, the finer the needle. Do sewing machine needles work this way?
Nope.
Generally, with sewing machine needles, the larger number means the thicker the needle is and you can sew bulky fabrics without fear of the needle breaking. But there’s a lot more information to work with than just a number on a pack of sewing machine needles. To begin with, like hand sewing needles, machine needles are given a title. With hand sewing needles, we worked with terms such as “sharp,” “tween,” “milliner,” etc. Machine needles carry names such as “jeans,” “leather,” and “universal.” Let’s break the titles down and then well deal with sizes.
Universal – These are the most commonly used type of machine needle. They can tackle nearly any type of woven and stable material – but not the stretchy knits. Universals can handle natural and synthetic fibers, as their tips are slightly rounded (but not as rounded as ball points). I think it’s always a good idea to have a pack or two of these tucked away somewhere in your studio. If you have them in sizes 70/10 to 90/14, there won’t be too many sewing jobs you can’t handle.
Ball Point – Ball point needles can be used for tightly woven fabrics, but they are really made for synthetic fibers and stretchy knits. The point is rounded, so the needle slides through the link in the threads instead of piercing them (which would cause many of the knit fabrics to tear).
Jersey – These are specifically made for knit fabrics with a medium stretch factor. This needle also has a rounded tip designed to slip between fibers and not cause laddering or holes.
Stretch — These are designed for fabrics with the maximum amount of stretch, such as dance lycra and swimwear fabric.
Leather – These are used for sewing leather and vinyl. As a matter of fact, you’d find it very difficult to sew either fiber without this needle. The end of this needle is ultra-sharp so it cleanly pierces through leather or vinyl. Always remember to lengthen your stitch when sewing with this needle, otherwise your fabric will become perforated.
Quilting – These needles are strengthened to pierce through numerous layers of fabrics and batting. The special treatment on their surface means the needles won’t break or bend. They’re also great to use in bag making, an activity where you’ll be sewing through multiple layers of fabric, foam, interfacing, etc.
Topstitching – Topstitching needles have large eyes to accommodate thick thread. Usually when you top stitch, you’re sewing through multiple layers of fabric. Like the quilting needles, these are designed to go through this thickness. And since some topstitching uses specialty threads, the larger eye easily accommodates this.
Sharps – Like quilting needles, sharps are strengthened to deal with multiple fabric layers. These can be used to sew lots of different fabrics – even thin vinyl. They also handle silks, applique, and tightly woven material. They are finer and sharper than universal needles.
Jeans/Denim – These needles are specifically made for sewing denim. Denim is thick and dense, so jeans needles are especially strong and are only available in the larger sewing machine needle sizes.
Double/Twin – This is kind of a specialty needle. I used this needle a lot when I taught Heirloom Sewing. They’re great for making pintucks. It literally is two needles joined at the top. They’re also great for putting hems in stretch garments.
These are the ten most common needles. There are some variations on these, such as winged needles (used for producing a kind of lacy effect in woven fabrics – I used this type of needle a great deal in Heirloom sewing) and a few other deviations. However, for the most part, these ten are the ones you see in the sewing machine needle section. Since we’re now familiar with the titles, let’s look at the numbers and what they mean.
Just like hand sewing needles, machine needles have numbers on them. Usually it’s two numbers, separated by a slanted line – such as 80/12. The smaller number – in this case, 12 – relates to the American system and this number can range from 8 to 20. And if you remember the larger the number, the thicker the needle shaft, so an 8 needle is thinner than a 20. The first number is for the European system and it can range from 60 to 120. However, it works the same as the American system – the larger the number, the thicker the needle. The most common sewing machine needle sizes are 60/8, 70/10, 75/11, 80/12, 90/14, and 100/16.
These combination of numbers are important because they tell you what needle works best with what kind of fabric. Generally, the range works like this:
60/10, 65/9, and 70/10 are used with very fine weight fabrics, such as fine silk, chiffon, organza, voile, and fine lace.
75/11, 80/12 are used with light weight fabrics such as cotton voile, silk, synthetics, spandex, and lycra.
90/14 is used on medium-weight fabrics such as quilting fabrics, cotton, velvet, fine corduroy, linen, muslin, jersey, tricot, knits, light wool, sweatshirt knit, and fleece.
100/16 is used on heavy weight material such as denim, corduroy, canvas, duck, suiting, and leather.
110/18 is used on very heavy weight fabric such as heavy denim, heavy canvas, upholstery, and faux fur.
120/20 is used on the heaviest of fabric, such as extra thick canvas or upholstery.
At this point, I know you’re wondering where all of this information fits into our quilting world. The needle sizes are good to know for anyone who does any type of sewing. However, as quilters, we can zero in on the types and sizes we know we will use regularly. This is enables us to purchase in bulk (if we quilt a lot) and know what to buy when we find a good sale. The quilting needles in size 90/14 are good to have on hand at all times. Every quilter needs several packs of these tucked away in our sewing room. The 90/14’s are the primary piecing needles for quilting cottons.
However, if you’re also an avid machine appliquer, you want a thinner needle. A 90/14 will leave visible holes on the applique pieces. If you work with raw-edge machine applique, you will also want to keep 75/11 or 80/12 sharp needles on hand. Generally, the machine applique thread is thinner than standard piecing thread and these sizes work great with fine thread. If you plan on using finished edge machine applique with monofilament thread, 60/8 and 70/10 sharps should also be in your needle arsenal.
If you plan on quilting your quilts on your domestic machine, the type of needle used depends on the type of quilting thread utilized. When I machine quilt on Big Red (my Janome ), I like to use a topstitching needle if possible. This needle can easily handle the bulk of a three-layer quilt sandwich without breaking and will cleanly pierce all the layers without a hitch. I usually stick to a 90/14 for this. When I do quilt on my domestic machine, I use a thin batt, such as a 100% cotton, silk, or thin polyester batt to keep the sandwich bulk to a minimum. If I’m using a thicker batting, I will quilt it on the long arm which handles the bulk much better. I also find a 90/14 handles most of my quilting thread – which varies from a 40 to 50-weight thread. If I want my quilting stitches to shine, I have been known to drop as low to a size 12-weight thread, which is a thick thread. Sometimes the eye of a 90/14 can handle it and sometimes it can’t (this honestly depends on the thread manufacturer). If the eye is too small, I will switch to a larger-sized topstitching needle. I also really love Superior Threads Micro Quilting thread. It’s 100-weight, so it’s super thin, but still really strong. I switch to a 70/10 topstitching needle or a 60/8 Microtex when I use this thread. In case you’re wondering, a Microtex needle is a type of sharp, designed for use with micro-fibers. They also work really, really well with Batiks. If I’m feeling all art-quiltsy and plan to use metallic thread, I will switch to Schmetz Metallic needles. I start with an 80/12 but have moved to a 75/11 if the 80/12 causes fabric damage. Any metallic needle has an elongated, specially coated eye which easily accommodates metallic thread flow at all stitch speeds. It also has a specialized scarf which prevents skipped stitches and thread breaks.
In this blog about sewing machines, (https://sherriquiltsalot.com//11/11/if-you-need-a-new-sewing-machine/) one of the items you want your machine to have is the ability to change the needle without a lot of trouble. Changing the needle can vary slightly between machines, but usually it goes a little like this:
Always consult your sewing machine manual before undertaking any general maintenance on your machine. There may be specifics details to follow for your brand.
We know how to change the needle, so how often should you change it? Generally, after eight hours of sewing, the needle should be changed. If you’re using titanium needles (my favorite), you can double the time. Now I know what you’re thinking – something along the lines of “I don’t punch a time clock when I sit down to sew, so how do I keep up with the hours?” I don’t either, so let me share with you how I kind of keep up with things.
Finally, I offer you two pieces of advice. First, don’t purchase cheap sewing machine needles. Buy brand names such as Organ or Schmetz or the brand your sewing machine company produces (such as Singer). Cheap needles of any type should be the bane of your quilting existence. Like quality hand sewing needles, good machine needles aren’t expensive. Do yourself a favor and keep your studio stocked with quality needles in the sizes you use most.
Second, if you’re perplexed with what size needle to use with a fabric or thread, please go here:
https://www.superiorthreads.com/
Superior Threads offers abundant information on all things thread, needle, and fabric. They’re my go-to source for any needle and thread questions I have. I also love their products and their customer service is stellar.
I hope this helps answer any questions you have concerning sewing machine needles. The sizes work opposite of hand sewing needles. The type you need depends on both the kind of fabric you’re working with and the thread you’re using. Change them regularly and keep a supply on hand. Honestly, a clean machine and a new needle make your quilting life so much easier.
Until next week, Keep Quilting!
Love and Stitches,
Sherri and Sam
Once again, let me reiterate that I do not work for any quilt-related company. My recommendations (such as Superior Threads mentioned above), come from years of personal experience ordering products from their company. I also do not receive free merchandise from this company for recommending them.
If you are looking for more details, kindly visit Rotary Pleating Machine.