It’s the new(ish) Mini, which is distinct from the old Mini in a number of ways.
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Firstly, the entire company is called Mini, as opposed to the car that was made by the British Motor Corporation, then British Leyland and finally the Rover Group. But that doesn’t even explain the whole thing – you could buy an Austin Mini, or a Morris, Rover, Leyland... or even Mini, after . You could get an Innocenti Mini if you lived on the continent, and if you wanted a bigger boot and yesteryearian styling, you could get a Riley or Wolseley saloon on Mini underpinnings.
But, of course, we’re not talking about that Mini. We’re talking about the new Mini, the one where... confusion also reigns, actually. There’s the Mini hatch, which is only called the hatch in common parlance if you get the base model one without anything interesting on it. Then it’s the Mini Cooper, or the Mini E, or the Mini JCW. And that’s before you get to the Clubman (i.e. the long one, which also confuses the original meaning of that name) and the massive Countryman.
Secondly, it’s quite continental, seeing as the Mini brand was part of BMW’s big Rover Group buyout in the mid-Nineties... which then saw it sell off pretty much everything but Mini.
Thirdly, the new Mini is from a wholly new mindset. Sir Alec’s original Mini design came from a place of privation – it was a small, Spartan car primarily to be efficient, while the layout and drivetrain was to maximise space. The new one, on the other hand, is absolutely profligate by comparison, slathered in the style of the original, but not the ethos. It’s essentially a front-drive sports car layout with a hatchback body on top and any number of niceties inside. But no Smiths gauges. That’s either a win or wince-inducing, depending on who you are.
And yes, because it’s now not quite as small as it used to be. Good one. Haven’t heard it before.
We’d say that the best bit about Minis is the handling. That whole ‘front-drive sports car with a hatchback body on top’ might steal space in a way that’d send Sir Alec into some kind of apoplexy, it does bear fruit when you’re keen to have a bit of fun behind the wheel. Because, as much as the newer Minis are losing that essential playfulness, there’s more than a few Minis from the past two decades that are laugh-out-loud fun.
Also a big win in our book is its resale value – while limited-run and mollycoddled examples can still fetch wallet-withering sums, the incredible popularity of the Mini from base model to top-spec sporting versions means a huge selection of used Minis at prices that aren’t bolstered by any notions of rarity.
But then other people might say the style, the cutesy looks or that broadly indefinable – but unmissable – charm is the best part. Others might say the Union Jack motifs in the later cars’ tail lights. Those people would be wrong.
Well, if you were looking for a modern version of the original ethos, you’re fresh out of luck. In reality, most modern automotive remakes don’t manage this feat – think about the Volkswagen Beetle, Ford Thunderbird or Dodge Charger, to name a few.
But that’s unlikely to be a concern for those among us who aren’t wistful car tragics. Mainly because, unlike the Thunderbird or Beetle, the Mini isn’t unremittingly rubbish. But also because, unlike the Charger, at least there’s a visual and spiritual link to the original car. So let’s move on to practicalities.
As was bandied about to no end back at the car’s launch, the Mini’s wheelbase rivalled a Land Rover’s. Even so, the Mini offered all the space of First Man – sure, there’s some, but it’s really only at one end and there’s just not as much as you were expecting.
There’s also not the best reputation for reliability – or cheap repairs when something does go wrong.
That varies quite a bit, depending on the year and spec, but the overarching theme is that Minis require more detailed and involved maintenance than your average city hatchback. Which is understandable, given they’re really BMW’s first foray into front-drive sports cars.
Early cars from to had simpler, more reliable engines, with a series of caveats ranging from oil leaks and a complicated cooling system (requiring specific knowledge and experience to keep in proper working order) to the fact that the supercharged engines are here for a good time, not a long time. Factor in an entire engine rebuild or replacement after 120,000 miles or so. Yes, really – if you’re buying a Mini, you’re buying a car you have to lavish with attention and great heaped armfuls of cash. And if you’re doing that, you may as well have the most rewarding driving experience you can extract in return. More on that in a bit.
Later cars used versions of the ‘Prince’ engine that BMW co-developed with PSA, which has had some pretty serious issues. As in ‘timing chain failure’ serious. There have also been issues with the fuel pump, oil consumption and carbon build-up on the valves that requires you to get them removed and media blasted (walnut shells seems to be the preferred media) before reinstalling. We could go on. And we will – just not yet, or we’d be here all day.
At times, gearboxes have also been something of an Achilles heel – the original Rover gearbox whines like a toddler and is about as fragile as the vase they just broke. The CVT gearbox – only found on the earlier cars – is... well, a CVT, which is pretty much anathema to the rest of the car. It also malfunctions; the stepped ‘gears’ that make the CVT less... well, CVT-ish, sound good in theory but can actually trap the car in ‘first gear’.
Quite a few over the years, actually. Engines range from diesels that suit the Mini’s character like an acrophobic suits being an acrobat to supercharged and turbocharged petrols that couldn’t be more hand in glove if they were OJ Simpson.
Early cars used a Brazilian-built (yes, really) engine called the Tritec, which also found its way into peerless metal like... the Chrysler PT Cruiser and Chery J11. True automotive paragons, you’ll agree.
But it was actually decently reliable – and even stood up to supercharging, creating a properly personable little engine that can, with a few mods and meticulous maintenance, pump out 200bhp and a supercharger whine you’d need a Jag V8 to outdo.
The turbocharged engines that replaced it brought the same sort of power but a mere fraction of the fun. They also brought a laundry list of their own problems, as we’ve touched on already.
But it’s worth mentioning that the naturally aspirated petrols actually shared the same engine architecture as the sportier Minis, and quite a few of the same foibles. So, being every bit as Top Gear-ish as you’d expect, we’d say that the best you can pick is the early supercharged Tritec. Yes, the one that lasts about 120,000 miles before needing a rebuild. We’re not tremendous at this ‘advice’ thing, are we?
In general, quite. After all, it’s a small car with a low roof, small engines and the ability to carry good corner speed – so you’re not wasting fuel with the slow in, fast out driving style that bigger cars tend to require.
In practice, however, the ebullient nature of your average Mini – and the enthusiastic driving style that it engenders – can have something of a detrimental effect on miles per gallon. Driven with... let’s say vim, a supercharged Cooper S can get into the mid-twenties. Low thirties are possible, too, but – as you might expect from a supercharged sports car – it’s not exactly built for hypermiling.
The other end of the spectrum would be something like the 1.5-litre diesel available from onwards, returning more than 60mpg in real-world driving – without any kind of efficiency drive. Badum-tish, et cetera.
But if we’re talking about the more modern engines, we’ll cast our vote for the 1.5-litre, three-cylinder turbo petrol from the Cooper. And also the BMW i8, as it happens.
OK, so the one in the i8 is about 90bhp up on the 134 to 139bhp on offer in the Mini Cooper, but it’s such a happy and willing little thing that you’ll relish revving out to the higher registers... and blowing the 50mpg you could be achieving into the weeds.
Quite quick, especially in the sporting versions. Which does make a modicum of sense, you’ll agree. The limited-run John Cooper Works GP models, anything with a factory-fitted JCW badge and even the Cooper S makes an easily defended case for being ‘a fast car’.
The newest Works GP makes the best argument, of course. But then it would, given its case is bolstered by more than 300 force-fed horsepower and pound-feet, fed through a limited-slip diff for a nought to sixty run in the five-second range and a top speed of more than 160mph.
Honestly? We’d probably go for the first-gen Works GP – its 218bhp might pale against the newer machine, but thanks to a scant kerb weight of 1,090kg, the stats don’t. Unless a 6.5-second zero to 60 time and 149mph top speed are somehow just too far off the pace for you.
The Mini is reliably a Mini, and is much more reliable at being a Mini than other cars which are patently not Minis. Even after two decades, we’re informed that the early cars are still reliably being Minis, with every indication that they’re steadfast in their unique ability to reliably be a Mini on any given day of the week. Which means that pretty much everything will break at some point. Because they’re Minis.
The consensus is that the best way to approach early cars from any generation (R53, R56 and so on) is with extraordinary amounts of caution. And, even under this rubric, special mention has to go to early R56s for a laundry list of issues.
Aside from the engine and gearbox maladies we’ve already covered, there were issues with... well. Take a deep breath. Power windows not working, brittle and rattly interior trim, dodgy thermostat housings, radiators that weep like they’re watching Schindler’s List, fuel and water pumps that routinely decide against doing just that, clutches that take a leaf out of the pumps’ book, control arms that need new bushings after 30,000 miles, engine mounts that feel 30,000 miles is about right as well, spark plugs and ignition coils that fail prematurely, timing chain tensioners that follow suit, turbochargers that fail due to broken oil feed lines... or just because. Oh, and power steering pumps that can self-immolate if their end-of-life whine is ignored.
Speaking of ignored, there is a rule of thumb: ignore the suggested service intervals and change the oil twice, if not three times as regularly as the handbook suggests. But don’t ignore your dipstick – pretty much all Minis use (or leak) oil, and can get through a full sump’s worth quicker than you’d think. We probably don’t need to point out how bad running out of oil can be.
Given what we’ve said about what can go wrong and how expensive it can be to fix, we really do wonder if insurance and tax are the big concerns here.
We did see that Mini offers a ‘Mini Insured Warranty’ that “can help protect you against the cost of repairs and replacement parts should something unexpected happen”, with the obvious joke that everyone probably did expect it to happen. And the less obvious joke that it’ll be getting on for £1,000 a year for a comprehensive warranty with no excess. You’ll halve that if you agree on a £250 excess. And when a single fuel pump can cost £600 (and need replacing on a biennial basis), it does bear thinking about.
In terms of vehicle tax (y’know, what you were actually asking about), the first-gen Cooper S with the old supercharged 1.6 will be a comparatively expensive endeavour, costing some £360 a year. Compare that with the Cooper S at £165 a year, thanks to its more efficient 1.6-litre turbo and attendant drop in CO2 emissions. And, as a post- car, it’s a much more reliable R56 than the earlier ones, so it might not be the worst idea in the world.
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The Cooper S falls into insurance group 30, alongside other hot hatch fare like the Fiesta ST, Abarth 595, DS3 and Alfa Giulietta 1.75 turbo. Which feels about right.
What feels entirely less so is the fact that, unless you’re 50 years old, you’ll pay more than £700 a year just to insure the thing against getting bent, nicked or written off. If you’re celebrating your 30th birthday with a Cooper S (we’ve heard worse ideas), expect to pay £900 a year for insurance. So, that’s somewhere around £2,000 a year for insurance, tax and a warranty, before you’ve even started totting up what it costs at the bowser...
The Mini Cooper is just about as British as they come, though the automaker hasn’t always had the easiest path forward financially. The original Mini was the creation of British Motor Corporation (BMC) and its Austin and Morris brands, which later became part of the troubled British Leyland consortium and, ultimately, Rover Group. Development of the first modern Mini began in , one year before BMW bought Rover. The new Mini was the best thing to come out of that turbulent union, and it arrived in the summer of .
While the Mini hatchback was the first version, a whole lineup of MINI (the brand presents in all caps) models proliferated after it starting with the sportier Mini Cooper but also including the wagon-like Clubman, the convertible, the crossover-like Countryman and Paceman, and even two-seat Coupés and Roadsters.
MINI’s motorsport history is lengthy, and the Cooper is really where it began. The original drew its name from John Cooper, a race car builder who saw the Mini’s competition potential and partnered with BMC. A Cooper S won the Monte Carlo rally in , MINI models’ sharp handling, short wheelbase, and low weight are all huge advantages on the track or special stage today. Though fun and efficient road cars, today’s versions are also meant to be track-day and rally-capable.
MINI sells the current Cooper as a two- or four-door hatchback (MINI calls them Cooper hardtops) and a convertible. The two-door model also offers a fully electric version. Other MINI models, including the Clubman and Countryman, also wear Cooper badges, but those larger models attract different buyers and are listed separately on the site, so we’ll focus on the Cooper hatchbacks and convertibles.
Though the Cooper is a small car with a small engine, MINI offers some blistering performance variants under the John Cooper Works (JCW) badge. Even the standard versions are keen handlers though, with go-kart-like handling and the brand’s trademark British style.
Which MINI Cooper years are the best?
Fair warning, MINI fans, these are complex cars that don’t have the best reliability record. Generally speaking, newer MINI Coopers (built since ) are more reliable than the first two generations, and being newer, they’ve just seen less use. But even then, outlets like Consumer Reports and J.D. Power do suggest some years are better than others. The , , and and newer models tend to have fewest issues, while and models seem to have more problems. The first-generation cars are best sampled in the years or .
What are the worst MINI Cooper years?
Second-generation models, built from to , seem to have the largest number of issues, but some years from other generations also see spikes in complaints. seems to be the worst year for first-generation models according to outlets like CarComplaints, while Consumer Reports singles out and as bad years for third-generation models. The bottom line here? Inspect carefully before you buy and take the car to a MINI specialist if you can, even if it isn’t a MINI dealer.
Is a used MINI Cooper a good deal?
It can be, but it depends heavily on the car’s condition. While these are small cars, they’re not simple ones. Much of their technology comes from even more expensive BMWs, and for all of the MINI Cooper’s fun qualities, it’s never entirely shaken the classic models’ reputation for spotty build quality. But there aren’t many other vehicles quite like the MINI, and those that are out there, like the Fiat 500 or the Volkswagen Beetle, tend to be either similar in their maintenance needs (Fiat) or less fun to drive (Volkswagen).
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The third-generation MINI Cooper has been around since and its replacement will arrive in . Third-gen Coopers have seen multiple powertrain options and updates over the years, and supply chain issues meant some odd feature changes from to , including times when manual transmissions (a MINI fan favorite) were not available.. With this generation, MINI began offering a turbocharged three-cylinder engine and bumped the Cooper S’s output to 189 horsepower. As in earlier years, European Diesel variations were not sold in the U.S., and while some other Mini Models have all-wheel drive, all Cooper Hardtops (and convertibles) are front-wheel drive.
The standard engine is a turbo 1.5-liter three-cylinder that makes 134 horsepower. It’s meant to be the economy version of this premium-feeling car, and while it isn’t fast, it’s still pretty fun to drive, especially in the open-air convertible. The 189-horsepower Cooper S is much quicker and the version most people choose, but there have also been some serious performance John Cooper Works (JCW) versions with up to 302 turbocharged horsepower. The JCW GP (offered in ) stands alone as the fastest factory Cooper yet built, with its lightweight carbon fiber parts and track-focused suspension.
also saw the debut of the Cooper SE, a fully-electric two-door MINI Hardtop. This version has only about 110 miles of EPA-rated range, but it’s just as fun as the gas Cooper S and actually accelerates and stops faster. As a short-range electric car, it’s plenty of fun and it seems to have a better reliability record than the gas versions, but it does cost a little more.
While still small, the third-gen MINI Cooper is five to ten inches longer than the second-generation models and offers a four-door variant. Even so, the back seats are still tight in both bodies. Most people will find plenty of space up front, including folks well over six feet tall. Cargo space is also restricted, and the Convertible paticularly so. Four-door Hardtop buyers might also want to consider the Mini Clubman, which drives similarly but offers much more interior space.
The Cooper’s 8-inch infotainment touchscreen is surrounded by a light ring that changes colors with drive modes and adds a unique accent to the car’s cabin. It offers Apple CarPlay, navigation, and other features, but Mini followed BMW’s misguided lead by making them added-cost options. Android Auto isn’t available at all. Early third-gen models have worse reliability records than later ones, so if you're looking at this generation, newer's going to be better.
MINI didn’t fundamentally alter the Cooper’s styling for its second generation, but it did redesign the car’s body structure, electrical systems, and powertrains. It also staggered the introduction of body styles, so even though this second-gen model debuted for , MINI convertibles in and were still first-generation designs. The Convertible joined the second-gen in . Though slightly larger overall, these cars weren’t dramatically bigger than the first-gen models, unlike the later third-gen, and all were two-door models.
Under the hood, all-new 1.6-liter engines, developed in concert with Peugeot (now part of Stellantis), mated to either a continuously variable automatic transmission (CVT, low-end models only), five or six-speed manuals, or a six-speed conventional automatic. Specs for entry-level models spanned 115 to 121 horsepower, while the turbocharged Cooper produced 163 to 181. JCW models, built from to , got 208 to 215. The updated design proved just as fun and stylish as before, but also trouble-prone. Powertrain, electrical, HVAC, and noise issues plague various reliability reports from multiple sources.
Inside, the cabin was also evolutionary, starting with the big round central speedometer and radio display, though late in the run an 8.8-inch screen for navigation and other functions was added as an option. Many extras were optional and expensive, including Satellite Radio compatibility. The back seat was still truly tiny, but in these years MINI also added the longer-wheelbase Clubman wagon (which we count as a separate model) with considerable added practicality.
Clean, well-maintained, low-mileage (sub-90,000-mile) examples aren’t too hard to find, but they will require some searching. It’s also better to buy one that has a paper trail of receipts or maintenance logs. Prices are all over the place, but clean low-end models can be had for less than $8,000. Cooper S and especially JCW models cost a bit more, but clean Cooper S hardtops can still be found for less than $10,000. Automatics are more common today, so expect to pay a little more for a manual.
Many years in the making, the first-generation modern MINI hatchback was introduced in the U.K. in the summer of and arrived stateside in March of . Though tiny by today’s standards, the “New Mini” was almost two feet longer and 10 inches wider than the Classic model, but it had the same light, small and fun personality. At first, it came only as a two-door hatchback, with the convertible bowing in .
While many versions were available abroad, only two 1.6-liter “Tritec” engines (developed in concert with Chrysler and made in Brazil) were offered here, with 115 horsepower in the Cooper and 162 to 168 in the supercharged Cooper S. Low-end models first came with a five-speed manual or continuously variable automatic (CVT), while the Cooper S had a six-speed manual.
The Cooper S was definitely the more enjoyable of the two, and generally the more reliable as well. Despite having the complexity of a supercharger and more features, its transmissions were more robust. In , when this first new MINI got a light refresh, a much more durable five-speed gearbox replaced the Cooper’s original one and a six-speed automatic joined the options list on the Cooper S. In , the car got further technical updates and some light cosmetic work too. The first-gen Convertible continued on into model year with these changes.
Unfortunately the complexity of the first-gen MINI Cooper and the tendency of owners to use it hard means finding a good one is tough today. They still look great, with their cute, clean lines and snazzy alloys, and they’re a hoot to drive, but head gaskets and oil leaks are common faults that can lead to more serious engine troubles if neglected.
Problems with early Cooper transmissions and worn suspension parts (these cars have a firm suspension and extra-tough run-flat tires were standard) are also common, and changing a clutch on any of these early MINI models is an expensive job. Rattles and squeaks were common even when they were new, and that was 20 years ago.
Most first-gen MINI Coopers are at the bottom of their depreciation curve now, so you can find many examples priced below $7,000. But it’s best to hold out for a really nice one and to have a thorough pre-purchase inspection done. Sub-100,000-mile examples are rare now but can still be found for under $10,000 with some searching.
Designed in response to the fuel shortages of the Suez Crisis and the subsequent invasion of teeny-tiny German microcars in England, the original British Motor Corporation (BMC) Mini changed the world. Led by engineer Alec Issigonis, its designers turned the engine sideways and made it front-wheel drive, where all previous BMC small cars were front-engine, rear-drive vehicles. Though he didn’t invent this idea, he did perfect it, reducing the size of the engine and transmission and maximizing the use of the car’s footprint for passengers and cargo.
The layout also saved weight and fuel, and since the car was not much bigger or heavier than some of the dinky-toy-like Microcars, it was ripe to become a performance platform. Early on, there were many production teething issues, which held back sales in the first couple of years, but it was still a hit from day one. By more than a million had been built. BMC had a wide array of brands and given that the Mini was expensive to make, it spread the model out over almost all of them.
The first versions were the Austin Se7en and Morris Mini Minor, but in time there were woody wagons and even luxury versions, the Riley Hornet and Wolseley Elf. It wasn't until the s that the actual branding was changed to "Mini," but the car survived not only BMC's rough transition into British Leyland and Rover Group, but also its replacement, the s Austin/Morris Metro. Production lasted until October 4, .
In the U.S., Austin and Morris were BMC’s primary non-sports-car brands, and the Mini was sold here from . It attracted a cult following here, but it was just too small for most Americans, and safety and emissions regulations curtailed U.S. sales after (it lasted another decade in Canada). However, in the late 20th century the car had a huge resurgence in popularity abroad, and interest in the classic Mini became so hot that people began privately importing them on their own, and some businesses have followed suit.
There are many different versions of the Classic Mini, as it was in production for 41 years, but some basics didn’t change too much over time. They all used BMC’s “A Series” engine, in seven different sizes: 848, 970, 997, 998, , , or -cc (1.3 liters on this last one). Power ranged just as much, with the little 848 having only 34 horsepower in the early days, and the final fuel-injected s Mini s having 63. But many have been tuned for even more, and engine swaps, particularly Honda K-Series motors, can make them go much faster.
By today’s standards, this is a teeny-tiny car, but it’s also a pretty simple one. It’s true that transmission-in-the-engine-sump design and old carburetors can be a pain, but the Mini is a good car for a DIYer. Plus, there are many variations to choose from, not only body styles (convertibles, wagons, vans, etc.) but also paints, trims, special editions (there were many dozens) and interior features.
Because so many classic Minis have been imported over the last 30 years or so, there’s never been a better era to be an American Classic Mini fan. Prices vary pretty wildly though, with cheap project cars for as little as $3,000 to K-Swapped or heavily restored rare examples commanding $30,000 or more.
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