10 Questions You Should to Know about automotive springs

Q: Can I weld to my springs?

Hengguang supply professional and honest service.

A: This question does come up from time to time for various reasons. You should never weld on any spring. Welding on a spring or even weld splatter onto a spring will cause a stress riser which will cause the spring to break. Suspensions must be treated as a safety item. The failure of a suspension or suspension part can result in catastrophic damage.

If welding needs to be performed in an area of your vehicle near a spring, you must either remove the spring from the vehicle before welding, or take proper precautions that the spring does not come in contact with either the heat generated from welding, or any weld splatter.

Q: Should I grease my leaf springs?

A: Prior to mid-s, grease was put between the spring leaves. In fact, springs of many pre- cars were wrapped in metal liners to hold the grease in. Some cars had hollow center bolts with grease fitting, so the springs could be lubed on the car.

The idea behind lubing between the leaves was to reduce inter-leaf friction. Then in the early ‘50s, the type of steel used to manufacture springs was changed to SAE and the practice of lubricating between the leaves stopped. Grease has an adverse effect on SAE steel. The chemicals in the grease react with the steel and cause the steel to breakdown. Take a look at the front springs on the next large truck you see leaning. There’s a good chance the power steering unit will be leaking onto the low side spring.

Q: Are mono-leaf springs safe?

A: Before we can answer whether mono-leaf springs are safe, let’s look at the makeup of both mono-leaf springs and the multi-leaf springs they attempt to replace.

A multi-leaf spring is not just a bunch of pieces of steel put together. It is an engineered system designed to provide support, stability and safety to a vehicle. In a multi-leaf spring, the length and makeup of each leaf is important because each leaf is designed to carry a proportionate amount of load and stress.

Also, each leaf is designed to provide support to the leaf above and below it. In the event of failure—and all springs eventually break—this feature will provide support for the vehicle. Mono-leaf springs consist of one plate of spring steel that is thick in the center and tapers out to the ends. The amount and length of the taper is critical to the durability and safety of the spring.

Remember, all springs have a finite life, meaning that, on day they will break.

When designing a leaf spring this eventual breaking must be taken into account. What will happen to the spring and the vehicle should this failure happen when a vehicle is in motion? A correctly designed multi-leaf spring is designed so each leaf carries a proportional amount of load, is stressed equally and will provide support to the vehicle when it fails.

The main leaf of the spring attaches the axle to the vehicle. A multi-leaf spring consists of a main plate and several supporting leaves. A mono-leaf spring is just a fancy main plate without the supporting leaves.

Q: What happens if the main leaf breaks?

A: Should the main leaf break, dire things could happen. When the main plate of a multi-leaf spring breaks in front of the axle, the axle may shift rearward. When the main plate of a multi-leaf spring breaks behind the axle, most multi-leaf springs will provide enough support to keep the body of the vehicle from dropping down onto the tires. When a mono-leaf spring breaks behind the axle, the body of the vehicle will drop down onto the tires and probably bring the car to a quick stop.

Q: What about the axle shifting rearward?

A: This might be a concern. Shifting of the axle causes a change in the control of the vehicle. This change of control can vary from slight to a complete loss of control.

In the case of a multi-leaf spring, it is extremely rare that the axle moves enough to cause a loss of control of the vehicle. However, in the case of mono-leaf springs, there is nothing to stop the axle from moving backwards.

The number of leaves, their stepping, the placement of the rebound clips, whether or not a wrap leaf is used and the type of axle attachment are all items that should be considered when designing a spring. A correctly designed multi-leaf spring will provide support to the main plate upon failure. With the correct placement and style of rebound clips, a main plate can be broken without any, or very little, shifting of the axle. In most cases, a vehicle with a broken multi-leaf spring can be safely driven to the repair shop.

Q: What is the best way to finish leaf springs: powder coating, painting or chroming?

A: Simply put, powder coating is a process where dry paint particles are sprayed onto the surfaces on the spring. Then the springs are heated, which melts and bonds the paint particles to the metal. In order to get the paint particles hot enough to bond they must be heated very close to the annealing temperature of the spring steel. Annealing means the heat treatment of the springs is being removed. Annealed springs will no longer support any weight. It will cost about $225 to $250 per spring to fix this mistake.

To have the powder coat work without softening the springs the heat must be held to less than 350 degrees.

Painting should not have to be explained. Use high-quality, high temperature engine enamel. Hang the spring by an eye and spray three to four coats of paint. Be sure to let the paint completely dry in between coats.

Whether powder coating or painting, do not cover the top of the leaves or the bottom part that is covered by the leaf below it. Either type of coating builds up a few thousands of an inch per leaf. With several leaves in a spring pack, the added thickness will be several thousands of an inch.

The weakest part of a spring is where the center bolt goes through the leaves. This section of a spring must be held with such a force that there is very little movement in the center bolt area.

As a spring flexes up and down, there is wear taking place between the leaves. If the inner surfaces have been coated this coating will wear through, allowing additional movement in the center bolt area. The additional movement will allow the U-bolts to loosen and soon you will experience either a sheared center bolt or a broken spring. There is no warranty on any spring broken between the U-bolts.

If the vehicle is driven, after three to four years rust will begin seeping between the leaves of a powder coated spring. A painted spring on a vehicle that is driven will also have rust begin to seep between the leaves after three to four years.

Q: What about chrome:

A: While a chromed spring looks neat, it can be a hidden time bomb. An improperly chromed spring may suffer from hydrogen embrittlement. This causes a spring to shatter, not break, into several small pieces.

A multi-leaf spring that simply breaks normally will still provide enough support to safely get the vehicle off the road. However a spring that shatters may not provide any support, leading to catastrophic results.

Chroming a spring is a very skilled procedure and should only be done by a chrome shop that is experienced with chroming springs.

Q: Can I cut my coil springs?

A: In a lot of cases it is fine to cut the coils. There are also cases where it cannot be done. If your springs have what is called “pigtail” ends, (where the ends have a smaller diameter then the body of the springs), then it cannot be done. If you try to stand the spring on its end and it stays upright, the ends are “square” and they cannot be cut.

For more information, please visit automotive springs.

The only types of coil springs that can be safely cut are those with “tangential” ends. Tangential ends look as though they just twist off into space. The spring would fall over if you tried to stand the spring up.

Q: What is the right way to cut a spring?

A: First, cut the coil with a hacksaw or a rubber cutoff wheel. (Be sure to use safety glasses.) Never use heat to cut a spring. The heat from a torch will change the structure of the steel. You will either end up with completely useless springs, or springs with a greatly shortened life. Don’t cut off the whole amount you need to lower your ride. Cut off about ¾ of the amount you wish to drop your ride. Then re-install the springs and test-drive the car at full force, do not baby it. You want the spring to find its seat and to fully flex.

Then recheck the ride height. If you are lucky you’ll be at the right height. If not, take the springs out and cut off a bit more. For front springs, it better to use a spring compressor. Remember, there is no way to making them longer, so be careful.

Q: Will my leaf springs settle?

A: All springs settle over time, however I believe the question should be, “How much will springs settle shortly after being installed?”

The answer is very little, providing the springs are the right springs for the vehicle. Springs support weight and this is why it is so important to be honest about the changes made to the vehicle. For every change made there can be a change in the amount of weight the springs will be required to carry.

Correctly manufactured springs, both leaf and coil are shot-peened, which removes stresses in the metal which occurs during the heat-treating process. The life of the spring is not only increased because of shot-peening, but the spring will not continue take “a set” once it is installed.

So how much settling is “very little?” Correctly matched springs will settle no more than ¼ to ½ in. once the car is finished and driven. Andy more than that means something is not right. Leaf springs will not settle any more than coil springs, nor will coil springs settle any more than leaf springs.

Q: I just broke a center bolt. What happened?

A: There is only one cause of broken center bolts, and that is loose U-bolts. The center bolt is necessary to hold all the leaves together and to locate the axle in correct position. The axle is located by the center bolt head that fits into a hole in the spring seat. Then the U-bolts are used to bind the spring and axle into one unit.

The U-bolts must be tightened to the proper torque specs to eliminate any movement between the spring and the axle and between each leaf of the spring. Should the U-bolts be loose, two things can happen—broken center bolts and broken leaves. When installing new springs be sure to use new U-bolts. Attempting to re-use the old U-bolts is being penny wise and pound-foolish.

Q: How do I correctly measure my leaf springs?

A: The correct way to measure the length of a leaf spring is to do so as though the spring is flat. The wrong way to measure is eye-to-eye. While measuring eye-to-eye may be the easiest, it is not accurate. The measurement you get is only good as long as the spring stays at that arch. As a spring flexes up and down, the distance between the eyes change.

A 48” (measured the correct way) with a 6” arch will measure 46 ¾” eye-to-eye. The same spring with a 3” arch will have an eye-to-eye measurement of 47 ¾”.

Also, the location of the center bolt is very important. Measuring eye-to-eye will not tell where the center bolt is located and the chances of your axle being in the right spot are not good. The only way to measure the length of a spring is to do it as though the spring was flat. Measure by following the curve of the spring, starting at the center of the front eye back to the center bolt. Then measure from the center of the other eye back to the center bolt.

These measurements are called the “divisional length” and are indicated as two different lengths. The 48” spring from above could have several “divisional lengths”: 24×24, 21×27, etc.

Spring arch is measured by splitting the center of the spring’s eyes with a straight edge. Then measure down from this line to the top of the main plate next to the center bolt. (The main plate is the leaf with the eyes). This measurement can be positive or negative. It does not matter which way a spring is bent, as it will work both ways. Setting the spring upside down and measuring from the floor to the main plate or to the bottom of the spring is incorrect because the steel thickness, eye sizes and eye shapes can vary.

“Free arch” is the term used for the arch when the spring is unloaded (off the vehicle).

“Loaded arch” is when the spring is under load (on the vehicle with weight on the springs).

To make it easy, Eaton Detroit Spring has created the Leaf Spring Measuring Form. It can be downloaded at www.eatonsprings.com/measure.

Q: Do I want my springs re-arched, or do I need new ones?

A: Re-arching is a term which applies to steel leaf springs only. Once fiberglass or composite springs lose their ability to support weight, nothing can be done to salvage them. Also, nothing can be done to salvage tired coil springs.

The re-arching process results in the spring being brought back to its original free arch. There are two ways of re-arching a spring, but only one correct way. The only acceptable method of re-arching starts by erasing the spring’s memory by annealing the steel, then reshaping and finally reheat-treating each leaf in the spring.

In order to anneal a spring it must first be taken apart. Then each leaf is visually inspected for signs of fatigue. Then each leaf is shot-blasted to remove all paint, rust, etc. and re-inspected.

If the leaves are in good condition, then each leaf is heated to at least 1,650 degrees Fahrenheit. Once heated, the leaf is placed on a pattern that has the correct shape and arch. The leaf is quenched in special oil to quickly cool it. The heating and quick cooling process results in a leaf that is too hard or brittle to be a spring. The leaf is then re-heated to at least 950 degrees for a set amount of time drawing out some of the hardness. Once cooled, the leaves are then shot-peened to relieve stress and reassembled. The final product is a properly tempered, re-arched and heat-treated spring. The most popular method is to use either a hammer or a press to change the arch. This is known as “cold setting.” Using the “cold setting” method will result in a short-term fix and is not an acceptable way to re-arch a spring.

Q: What needs to be considered before having a spring re-arched?

A: There are some considerations to be made prior to having springs re-arched, the first being cost. Re-arching is at a premium above the price of new springs. Then you must add to this the price of new bushings, liners, clips, labor to reassemble them and shipping costs. The old parts cannot be reused. However, if you have a straight axle Corvette or any other car with original style grooved steel; the cost is well worth it to maintain originality because this type of steel is no longer made.

The second consideration is the condition of the springs. Are any leaves broken?

Are the leaves separating towards the ends?

Are there pit marks on the flat sides of the leaves? (The pit marks can look like small rust spots). Are there lines like those on the palm of your hand running across the flat sides of the leaves?

If your springs show any of these conditions, they would not be candidates for re-arching.

Author n2fordwagons
Senior Member



Joined: 20-July-
Location: GA
Status: Offline
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Topic: Coil Spring questions
    Posted: 20-November- at 8:34AM I didn't wanna clog up the Coil Spring Sticky thread with these questions.  So, figured I'd start my own.  I have a '76 Montego wagon with 460.  The current suspension is stock, with exception of air shocks in the rear.  And I'm pretty sure a rear sway bar was added.  Here's what I'm trying to accomplish: - Lower the rear about 1" from where it currently sits. - Lower the front about 2" from where it currently sits. - Maintain a comfortable cruising ride.  Nothing harsh or firm.  If handling improves, that's great.  If not, no big deal. - Keep the rear at a constant height, regardless of how much weight is in the rear.  Currently, with 6 people in the wagon, the rear drops a decent amount. I plan to order lowering springs from Eaton.  But their advertised drops are based on original (when new) height.  I'm assuming they don't take into consideration how much a car has settled.  Is there a way that I can determine how much my springs have settled, so I can order the correct drop, that suits my wants?  I realize I can cut the front springs.  But the rears are pigtail, so they can't be cut. What do I need, in order to keep the rear from dropping, when extra weight is in the car?  Progressive rate springs?? Should I keep the rear air shocks, or replace? Any advice and opinions are greatly appreciated!! Jeff

72 base Torino (modified)
72 Gran Torino Squire robot
Senior Member



Joined: 02-September-
Location: Michigan
Status: Offline
Points: 505 Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 20-November- at 3:31PM My car is a 351W non-AC.  I ordered springs from Eaton that were 351W with A/C for a firmer ride and with the 1 inch drop.  Side by side the Eaton was shorter, but once installed, it sits a bit higher than it was, which I attribute to 40 years of wear and settling.  So,  I would say go with a 2in drop or stock size and cut the top if you can.  The ride is firmer, but no harsh.  I would measure floor to top of wheel well for a baseline at all four corners so you have a real, not subjective idea of what is happening.   Gran Torino Sport
Mazda 6
Jeep Wrangler
Damon Daybreak 35BD unlovedford
Senior Member



Joined: 17-December-
Location: Tennessee
Status: Offline
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 21-November- at 1:53AM Really, the only way I have found to keep the rear at a constant height is a self-leveling air bag system. Expensive, unless you can pirate one off a 90's Town Car. You would need the bags, lines, compressor and all associated pieces to get it to work. That also eliminates the rear springs. Get a good set of gas shocks as well.

On the front, are you leaving the bumper and supports alone or doing a tuck? Tucking it eliminates a lot of weight (narrowing the outer bumper, eliminating the heavy rear brace, modifying the heavy supports) so that would actually cause the car to sit a wee bit higher. May or may not be noticable with your 460, but thought I'd throw that out there.

Again, a good set of gas shocks will cause the car to sit a bit higher. On my red wagon, it raised the car 1 inch all around just installing them. Cutting the front springs brought the front back down. Joe
Mom's Squire Wagon
Torino Wagon
Torino       
Cougar XR7-First batch
Torino 460
BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous
Popeye and Brutus (Rams)
n2fordwagons
Senior Member



Joined: 20-July-
Location: GA
Status: Offline
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 21-November- at 3:24AM Thanks guys.  Joe, I'm leaving the bumpers alone.  I've never dealt with air bags.  I'm assuming the height is easily adjustable with a set from a 90's Town Car?  How much of a "bolt-in" solution is that?  Will I need to fabricate brackets, etc? So, it looks like a gamble when it comes to ordering springs?  No definite way to determine original ride height vs current ride height? With the front, I'm thinking I might just cut my current springs.  Then, I'll know I'm getting a drop.  I did that with my LTD II wagon.  Unfortunately, can't do that with the rear. Jeff

72 base Torino (modified)
72 Gran Torino Squire aquartlow
Senior Member



Joined: 19-December-
Location: Summerfield, Fl
Status: Offline
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 21-November- at 10:25AM n2fordwagons wrote:

Thanks guys.  Joe, I'm leaving the bumpers alone.  I've never dealt with air bags.  I'm assuming the height is easily adjustable with a set from a 90's Town Car?  How much of a "bolt-in" solution is that?  Will I need to fabricate brackets, etc?



So, it looks like a gamble when it comes to ordering springs?  No definite way to determine original ride height vs current ride height?

With the front, I'm thinking I might just cut my current springs.  Then, I'll know I'm getting a drop.  I did that with my LTD II wagon.  Unfortunately, can't do that with the rear.

You can cut the rear springs! You just have to re-form the pigtail ends of the spring. I used a cut-off wheel to remove about 1.5 coils out of my rear coil springs to get the drop I was looking for. I used a torch to heat then reform the upper pigtails only (and not heat the free coils), they are just used to locate the spring in the upper pockets. If you look at the springs the way they sit in the upper pockets, about a coil and a quarter is used just to locate the spring. Mine have been installed and in use for over a year and a half with no ill effects. I will say it firmed up the ride quite a bit. Todd www.supermotors.net/
Yeah, It's a Hybrid...It burns gas and tires.

No matter how good she looks, somebody, somewhere, is tired of her sh*t.

Beauty is skin deep, ugliness goes clear to the bone. 72FordGTS
Admin Group


GTS.org Admin

Joined: 06-September-
Location: Ontario, Canada
Status: Offline
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 21-November- at 10:31AM

I'd stick with a stock replacement spring, as others have suggested for your application.  You can order the springs from Eaton with the drop already (like others have mentioned), or you can get Moog replacements, which are much cheaper, and trim them to the ride height you want.  Just be aware that you don't want to cut too much at once. 

Contact us to discuss your requirements of coil spring and shock absorber. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

For the rear, you can add Airlift Air bags to the coils.  I had these on one of my old cars with rear coils and they worked great to level out the ride with a big load.  They are easy to install and fill up like air shocks.  Unlike air shocks, you can still use a good quality shock and the load goes on your spring seats rather than your shock mounts. Vince

Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car

GTS.org Admin robot
Senior Member



Joined: 02-September-
Location: Michigan
Status: Offline
Points: 505 Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 21-November- at 10:36AM The problem with old coils is they are mushy.  Yeah, new ones sit higher, but they offer better handling.  Think of it this way, get fronts with a 2 inch drop, and rears with a 1 inch drop and while your overall ride highth might be a bit taller than today, it will have the ass up rake most people like. Gran Torino Sport
Mazda 6
Jeep Wrangler
Damon Daybreak 35BD californiajohnny
Moderator Group



Joined: 05-October-
Location: winlock, wa
Status: Offline
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 21-November- at 2:05PM it's been my experience with stock coils on most types of vehicles, about 1/2 of a coil removed = about  1 inch of drop.  what i mean by 1/2 a coil is : if you look at the removed part  from the end it would look like a "C", if you cut 1 coil- the removed part would look like an "O"
  hope this helps.
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION n2fordwagons
Senior Member



Joined: 20-July-
Location: GA
Status: Offline
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 22-November- at 4:02AM 72FordGTS wrote:

For the rear, you can add Airlift Air bags to the coils.  I had these on one of my old cars with rear coils and they worked great to level out the ride with a big load.  They are easy to install and fill up like air shocks.  Unlike air shocks, you can still use a good quality shock and the load goes on your spring seats rather than your shock mounts. Something like this? Jeff

72 base Torino (modified)
72 Gran Torino Squire n2fordwagons
Senior Member



Joined: 20-July-
Location: GA
Status: Offline
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 22-November- at 4:13AM I've only done one front suspension rebuild.  So, I'm pretty green to it.  I used a pickle fork to separate the ball joints, which tore up my ball joints.  No big deal, I was replacing them anyways.  Since it looks like I might be re-installing the coils more than once (trial & error), how do I separate my new ball joints without tearing them up?   Jeff

72 base Torino (modified)
72 Gran Torino Squire 72FordGTS
Admin Group


GTS.org Admin

Joined: 06-September-
Location: Ontario, Canada
Status: Offline
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 22-November- at 9:05AM Hey Jeff,those are the bags I am talking about.  I am not sure if they make them for your wagon or not, but on my old wagon (wasn't a Torino) they worked great.As for the front ball joints, loosen the castle nut for the ball joint.  Once the castle nut is loose, loosen it enough so that there is a small gap between the mounting surface on the steering knuckle and the bottom of the nut.  Make sure the nut is still well threaded on though, you don't want just a couple of threads holding it in place. Then use a big ball peen hammer, and hit the part of the knuckle on the side where the ball joint stud goes through.   A couple of good nits usually breaks the taper loose and the knuckle will slam tight against the castle nut with a bang.  Then you can use a jack to take the weight off the arm, remove the nut and continue the disassembly.  Vince

Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car

GTS.org Admin californiajohnny
Moderator Group



Joined: 05-October-
Location: winlock, wa
Status: Offline
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 22-November- at 11:47AM i've used the two hammer method  with great success,( hit the area of the spindle from both sides at the same time) if you have room to get a good solid swing equally with both hammers. as far as disassembling them several times to check your height, with all new ball joints installed, make sure your down right on the taper then just screw the new nuts on all the way finger tight, set the car down with tires on and  roll the car back or forward a few feet, check your height, and after you are happy with  the height then go back and tighten everything up! (that way it will be easy to get the ball joints back a part if you need to cut more spring off) after you get everything all done and replaced,the way you want it, head to the alignment shop, and you 'll be good to go
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION robot
Senior Member



Joined: 02-September-
Location: Michigan
Status: Offline
Points: 505 Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 22-November- at 2:23PM For the ball joints, you can get a pitman amp puller and separate the ball joints without the chance of mushrooming the top of the ball joint studs.  They usually come in 2 sizes, get the larger one.  They also come in 2 prices, get the cheaper one.  They are the exact same tool. 
They should pop off pretty easy this way since they are new.  Gran Torino Sport
Mazda 6
Jeep Wrangler
Damon Daybreak 35BD robot
Senior Member



Joined: 02-September-
Location: Michigan
Status: Offline
Points: 505 Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 22-November- at 2:25PM For the ball joints, you can get a pitman amp puller and separate the ball joints without the chance of mushrooming the top of the ball joint studs.  They usually come in 2 sizes, get the larger one.  They also come in 2 prices, get the cheaper one.  They are the exact same tool. 
They should pop off pretty easy this way since they are new. Oh, and I would not do this without a spring compressor.  I just did mine and would not try the "Jack only" method.

Edited by robot - 22-November- at 2:25PM Gran Torino Sport
Mazda 6
Jeep Wrangler
Damon Daybreak 35BD californiajohnny
Moderator Group



Joined: 05-October-
Location: winlock, wa
Status: Offline
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 22-November- at 2:56PM robot wrote:

For the ball joints, you can get a pitman amp puller and separate the ball joints without the chance of mushrooming the top of the ball joint studs.  They usually come in 2 sizes, get the larger one.  They also come in 2 prices, get the cheaper one.  They are the exact same tool. 
They should pop off pretty easy this way since they are new.   interesting idea using the pitman arm puller
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION 72FordGTS
Admin Group


GTS.org Admin

Joined: 06-September-
Location: Ontario, Canada
Status: Offline
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 22-November- at 2:58PM I like that pitman arm puller idea too.  I may try it soon when I take apart my front end to trim my springs.  Vince

Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car

GTS.org Admin n2fordwagons
Senior Member



Joined: 20-July-
Location: GA
Status: Offline
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 22-November- at 5:10PM Awesome guys!  I appreciate the input.  This will be one of my winter projects.  I'll keep you updated.  Thanks again! Jeff

72 base Torino (modified)
72 Gran Torino Squire robot
Senior Member



Joined: 02-September-
Location: Michigan
Status: Offline
Points: 505 Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 24-November- at 5:38AM Yeah, I think the pitman arm puller is the way to go. Why take a chance on mushrooming the new ball joints or tearing the seal. It's one of those things where, when I look a the pickle Fork and Pittman arm puller  I can hear my Dad saying "Are you going to do this the right way or not?"   Gran Torino Sport
Mazda 6
Jeep Wrangler
Damon Daybreak 35BD californiajohnny
Moderator Group



Joined: 05-October-
Location: winlock, wa
Status: Offline
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 24-November- at 7:24AM robot wrote:

Yeah, I think the pitman arm puller is the way to go. Why take a chance on mushrooming the new ball joints or tearing the seal. It's one of those things where, when I look a the pickle Fork and Pittman arm puller  I can hear my Dad saying "Are you going to do this the right way or not?"   sounds like your dad knew my dad
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION SPLUHAR
Member



Joined: 02-January-
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 146 Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 04-December- at 9:13AM Don't separate ball joints.  Just un-bolt upper arm from chassis and let it hang. ELITE, 71 429 w/cam, quadrajet, 4 wheel Mark V disc brakes, 3.25 trac lok, gutted & 12.9'd Mustang steering box robot
Senior Member



Joined: 02-September-
Location: Michigan
Status: Offline
Points: 505 Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 04-December- at 3:32PM That upper arm is still under considerable strain from the existing spring.  Plus, how do you get the arm back on?  How do you compress it and hold it to threat in the bolts?  Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you are describing. Gran Torino Sport
Mazda 6
Jeep Wrangler
Damon Daybreak 35BD unlovedford
Senior Member



Joined: 17-December-
Location: Tennessee
Status: Offline
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 05-December- at 2:20AM I wpould highly advise against unbolting the upper arm while still under pressure. They pop with extreme force. I do that when I strip one of our cars, but that is to keep everything together as a unit. I cannot see how someone would ever get it back together like that. Joe
Mom's Squire Wagon
Torino Wagon
Torino       
Cougar XR7-First batch
Torino 460
BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous
Popeye and Brutus (Rams)
californiajohnny
Moderator Group



Joined: 05-October-
Location: winlock, wa
Status: Offline
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 05-December- at 12:52PM unlovedford wrote:

I wpould highly advise against unbolting the upper arm while still under pressure. They pop with extreme force. I do that when I strip one of our cars, but that is to keep everything together as a unit. I cannot see how someone would ever get it back together like that.   for sure!!!! it could be done , but way more effort than doing it right and unsafe too!!
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION SPLUHAR
Member



Joined: 02-January-
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 146 Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 01-May- at 10:13AM Duh! of course you'd support the bottom of the lower control arm w/ a jack! Then lower it slowly, (you'll have to undo shock, sway bar, strut rod) and pull the spring w/ a compressor. I've done it like that a bunch of times.

It goes right back together (with the jack) the same way.

Edited by SPLUHAR - 01-May- at 10:15AM ELITE, 71 429 w/cam, quadrajet, 4 wheel Mark V disc brakes, 3.25 trac lok, gutted & 12.9'd Mustang steering box Billy C
Senior Member



Joined: 10-February-
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Status: Offline
Points: 951 Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 01-May- at 2:31PM n2fordwagons wrote:

So, it looks like a gamble when it comes to ordering springs?  No definite way to determine original ride height vs current ride height? Yes, although, I'd call it more trial and error.Also, don't just go unbolting anything without understanding where all your forces are from the spring. You don't want that thing to fly out of there. You REALLY don't want that thing to fly out of there.

Edited by Billy C - 01-May- at 2:35PM -Billy Conturo Eliteman76
Admin Group



Joined: 20-March-
Location: Nebraska, USA
Status: Offline
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 01-May- at 3:59PM There is a specific tool I use for our cars. Regular strut type spring compressors are for these late model skinny spring cars.You need the correct tool.Autozone has the version I inherited after my stepdad passed away. I've used this one many years.

Edited by Eliteman76 - 01-May- at 4:00PM Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed Restomod
Pondering: #99Problems Eliteman76
Admin Group



Joined: 20-March-
Location: Nebraska, USA
Status: Offline
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 01-May- at 4:03PM As far as springs go...honestly I just think of Air Ride Technologies for a bag setup out back.Only other option I can think of...something basic, like using an in-coil airbag that like the 90's F series use as a helper spring, just hook up to a compressor when you need to air up for additional weight Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed Restomod
Pondering: #99Problems robot
Senior Member



Joined: 02-September-
Location: Michigan
Status: Offline
Points: 505 Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 02-May- at 1:27AM I rented that spring compressor from Autozone.  You buy it and get all your money back when you return it.Here is the thing about ride height.  I do believe springs sag after 40 years.  How much? I don't know.  Depends on if you have a 302 that never left a paved road or a 460 with AC that lived 15 years at the end of a dirt road.  I do know what I put a 1in drop Eaton springs in the front of my 73 sport last fall.  I think they were a bit shorter than the ones I took out, but  it sits a smidge higher than the old springs.  Not nose up, but higher.  I plan on putting Eatons in the back and am still deciding on 1in drops or stock for that ass up look. Gran Torino Sport
Mazda 6
Jeep Wrangler
Damon Daybreak 35BD n2fordwagons
Senior Member



Joined: 20-July-
Location: GA
Status: Offline
Points: Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 02-May- at 3:32AM Thanks for the input everyone.  I ended up buying front & rear 2" drop Eaton springs.  They advised, and I'm hoping, that I had about an inch of settling/sag from the original height, before I started.  Therefore, I'm hoping the Eaton 2" drop springs will give me a 1" drop from the existing height.  I'm in the middle of the suspension rebuild, so I'll let you know how it turns out. By no means am I an expert.  This is my 2nd suspension rebuild on these cars.  And, I tore a front suspension apart in a Pull-A-Part.  On all of them, I didn't use a spring compressor.  I just carefully lowered the lower arm with my jack, after disconnecting everything.  The top half of the springs are enclosed in a "pocket" which helps keep the springs from popping out. Jeff

72 base Torino (modified)
72 Gran Torino Squire Billy C
Senior Member



Joined: 10-February-
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Status: Offline
Points: 951 Post Options    Thanks(0)    Quote  Reply Posted: 02-May- at 5:04AM It can be done without a spring compress. Just be careful and mindful of whats what.